Sand the inside of the pauldron along the top centre line, and glue the webbing and D-ring in place where you just sanded. ![]() Make sure you don’t glue too close to the D-ring because you want it to be able to move freely. Fold it back on itself with the D-ring in the centre and glue it to itself. **Make sure your fingers are not under the blade when cutting through.**Ĭut a piece of webbing 11cm long. Make a mark 65mm (size S) / 70mm (size M) / 80mm (size L) in from the outside edge of the torso piece that is perpendicular to the top seam.Ĭut a slot through the shoulder, the width of your webbing along that line. ** The measurements here are what worked for me, however if you have really wide or narrow shoulders, feel free to change the spacing.** These are just guidelines that show where different pieces will eventually go. There are also light grey lines on the pattern. Punch through the paper in the centre of any holes that need to be punched. To mark where the dotted lines intersect in the middle of the pattern, push your pen tip through the paper to leave a mark on the foam. The dotted lines on the pattern show where you will be making indentations later with the gift card, so use your pen and a ruler to mark the lines onto the pattern. You could also just hold the paper up to some light so you can see through it, and then transfer the marks to the back side. This is handy when you flip the paper, because then you know where your alignment points should go. ** Quick tip** If you trace right on top of the alignment marks while there is a sheet of foam under the pattern, it leaves an indentation in the paper. Make sure to mark all the alignment marks, and once you remove the pattern, extend these lines to the inside of your foam pieces so that they remain on the foam once it is cut out. This is especially important if you are using foam with only one smooth side. Piece 3 will need to be flipped over and traced again as indicated on the pattern. These are general tracing instructions, but I woud advise only tracing and cutting the pieces mentioned in the next step so that you can be sure you have the right size before cutting any other pieces out. Place the pieces on the foam and trace around them with the ballpoint pen, holding them firmly so that they don’t move while being traced. It doesn't cost you any more though □Ĭut the pattern out of the paper, cutting as close to the line as you can without removing the line. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Please note, the above links are affiliate links. Super Glue: For gluing the wire to the foam.ĥ minute 2 part epoxy(paid link): For making decorative rivets.Ĭutting Surface: Somewhere to cut where you won’t be destroying anything. Hole punches(paid link) : 4mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm Gift Card: For making grooves in the foam.Ĭoarse sandpaper: To roughen up the foam and belt to prep for gluing. Rubber Gloves: Used for applying the metallic paste. ![]() Vinyl Tubing (1/4” outside diameter): 50 cm is plenty.Ģ old pens or a bit more (or 25 cm of 1/4" vinyl tubing)Ĭorrugated hose: I used an old dishwasher drain hose - 20 mm diameter.īlowdryer: Used for heating the foam so it can be shaped. I used Liquitex Basics: Mars Black and Bronze as well as DecoArt Americana Decor Metallics: Vintage Brass, Silver, and Pewter (paid Links) It tends to remain a little bit flexible when it dries. Paint: I like to use artists acrylic paint. ![]() If you use a temperature just a little bit higher than the melting point of the glue, you will have fewer burnt fingers, and not have to hold pieces together as long as they cool. Hot Glue Gun(paid link) : I highly suggest a glue gun that has adjustable temperature. Gluing Surface: A surface that the hot glue won’t stick to - The ultimate surface is a silicone baking mat - nothing sticks to silicone! ![]() Very Sharp Knife(paid link) : If it is not really sharp you will have a terrible time when you are cutting the foam. This allows you to cut the long strips without needing to splice shorter ones together. ** When printing, make sure scale is set to ACTUAL SIZE**ĥ-8mm EVA Foam(paid link): This can be foam from a camping/exercise mat or the denser EVA foam found in anti-fatigue floor mat.Ģ mm EVA foam(paid link): The larger the sheets, the better. In case you are wondering, yes this pattern does also fit most women as well. Made from inexpensive EVA foam floor mats and hot glue, it is not beyond the skills and budget of the average crafter to make a costume piece worthy of a blockbuster movie! Those were the roots behind this steampunk shoulder armor, though it holds it's own very well all by itself, and, more than that, works well as a base for many different fantasy armor cosplays. I made a mechanical arm pattern a while ago, and though it looked pretty epic by itself, I felt it would be even better if it was a part of a larger mechanical body armor piece.
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